Mt. Everest expedition from Tibet side has become more popular among the mountaineers to make their dream come true to stand on the summit of Mt. Everest (Chomolungma, Goddess Mother of the World). Among the several reasons, low cost of royalty and other basic mountaineering services as well as the easy route to the summit are the key factors to attract more Everest climbers from North Col. than from the South Col of Nepal. There are no easy routes on Everest but we try to put the odds on our side. We take the North Ridge because we consider it to be the safest. Technically, it is more challenging than the South Side but does not have the ice fall danger. Our Advanced Base Camp (6,400 m.) is right under the shadow of Changtse and has a view of virtually the whole route. From here we use four more camps, a formula that has brought us considerable success in the past.
Our trip starts from Kathmandu and flight in to Lhasa. We will have 2/3 days sightseeing around Lhasa then three day drive taken us to the Everest Chinese Base Camp at 5,400m. and from there it is 22 km to the ABC at 6400m by yaks. I put an intermediate camp on the glacier about half way between Base Camp and ABC, so this trip takes two days. From the ABC the route continues up the East Rongbuk glacier to the north of the glacier and then up easy snow slopes to the North Col at 7,000m. where Camp 1 is situated on snow. There is a long reasonably angled snow slope to 7,400m. where I plan to put camp 2 on snow. The route from C2 to C3 is up a series of rock and shingle steps, again all very easy terrain to walk on.
Camp 3 will be at 7,900 m. on rock. From C3 the route traverses across a series of rock steps and then up medium angled snow slopes and then again on mixed rock and snow to the camp 4 at 8400m. This camp is normally on rock, but some years there is snow cover here. There will be a fixed rope from the neve to this point. Although you may not need this to assist with climbing it does, however provide a safety line which is useful when you are tired and when the wind is blowing. This route is traditionally very windy, especially between C2 and C3.
The summit day is from C4. The route is up mixed rock and snow steps to the NE ridge. These steps are quite steep in places and require considerable care especially as you now have all of your bulky clothing and oxygen equipment on.
North East Ridge is quite wide with small steps with little height gain until the First Step. The First Step is a short rock buttress which will be fixed with rope. Above here the climbing is more exposed but again without much height gain until the Second Step. The second step is across a series of small ledges which are sometimes snow covered, then around a large boulder and then up the ladder. Again, all of this section will be fixed with rope. Above this step there is again relatively gentle mixed ground until what is called the Third Step. Although not as serious as the previous steps, there is fixed rope to the Col before the final summit snow slopes. These are quite steep and also have fixed rope to the rock buttress from where there is a short section of corniced ridge to the summit. We have designed itinerary for make this expedition successful joining with other climber in minimum cost.
Expedition Itinerary:
Day 01: Arrival in Kathmandu airport, meet our staff then transfer to Hotel.
Day 02: In Kathmandu official briefing and shopping.
Day 03: Free in Kathmandu.
Day 04: Fly to Lhasa at Gongar airport, meet our staff and transfer to Hotel.
Day 05: Sightseeing in Lhasa, Drepung, Sera and Norbu Lingka monasteries.
Day 06: Sightseeing in Lhasa, Potala Palace, Jokhang and Barkhor market.
Day 07: Lhasa – Shigatse 3940m. by dive and transfer to Hotel.
Day 08: Shigatse – Shegar 4050m. by drive then transfer to Hotel.
Day 09: Shegar – Everest Base Camp 5200m. Tented Camp.
Day 10 – 12: Everest Chinese Base Camp. Tented Camp.
Day 13: Everest Chinese BC trek to intermediate camp 6200m. Tented Camp.
Day 14: Everest Advance Base Camp 6500m. Tented Camp.
Day 15 – 57: North Col Everest climbing Period. Tented Camp
Day 58: Preparation and back to Advance Base Camp. Tented Camp.
Day 59: Advance base Camp to Chinese Base Camp. Tented Camp.
Day 60: Cleaning up and back pack the things to return. Tented Camp.
Day 61: Drive to Nyalam 3750m. Guest House (Hotel).
Day 62: Drive to Nepal border and continue drive to Kathmandu then transfers to Hotel.
Day 63: Free in Kathmandu.
Day 64: Last minute, transfer to airport for your onward journey.
Expedition Cost in group joining basis;
Cost: US $ / EURO Per Person. Please write us email
Climbing Sherpa: Per Sherpa US $ 3900 + climbing & summit bonus (if required by climber)
Expedition Cost Includes:
- All land transportation by private vehicle, (Airport /Hotel/Airport & expedition pick up & drop).
- Welcome dinner with Nepali culture programs.
- 5 Nights Hotel Accommodation in Kathmandu with bed & breakfast basis at (3 Star Hotel) Hotel Manang.
- Air Ticket for Lhasa.
- Sightseeing in Lhasa as per the programs.
- Expert, professional Nepalese expedition crews; Advance Base Camp guide, Cook, Kitchen boys, and mountaineering gears till to the ABC.
- Crew’s equipment charge, daily wages, expedition insurance and other facility will provided by our agency itself.
- Tibet visa & Travel Permit for the expedition crew’s.
- 3 Major meals B/L/D (Full board basis) and Hotel accommodation while on the Lhasa, base Camps and way back to Kathmandu as per programs.
- 3 Major meals B/L/D during your stay in Chinese Base Camp and Advance Base Camp.
- Each person will get one North Face brand Tent and Mattress for Chinese Base Camp and Advance Base Camp.
- We provide Dining Tent, Tables, Chairs, Toilet Tent, Mess Tent, Shower Tent and Kitchen Tent at Chinese Base Camp and Advance Base Camp.
- Per Person 50 KG. Expedition equipment’s luggage or barrels allowed for expedition till to and from Base Camp and Advance Base Camp
- Per Person 40 KG. Expedition equipment’s luggage or barrels is allowed on the way back to Advance Base Camp to Chinese Base Camp. (Expedition equipment’s luggage or barrels carried by Yak).
- Chinese Base Camp/ Zhangmu/ Kathmandu by tourist Mini Bus/Jeep/ Land Cruiser for members, Nepalese crew’s and Truck for the whole expedition gears.
- North Col Everest Expedition permit, Tibet group Visa and Travel Permit.
- Liaison Officer and Interpreter for expedition till Chinese Base Camp.
- Emergency Oxygen, Mask & regulator for Advance Base Camp.
- Satellite Phone (Pay call service till ABC).
- Gammo Bag for the life saving device, incase of altitude sickness for Member during the expedition.
- Expedition T-shirts for each member with expedition label.
- Medical Kit Box for Nepalese crew’s and simple medical service for members till ABC.
Expedition Cost Doesn’t Include:
- Airfare: To & from your country.
- International airport departure tax.
- Nepal entry visa and Re-entry visa fees.
- Personal expedition climbing gears.
- Major meals: Lunch and Dinner during your stay in Kathmandu.
- Personal local transportation in Kathmandu and Tibet except above mentioned programs.
- Personal travel medical and rescue insurance.
- Emergency evacuation: Rescue Jeep US $ 700 to Zhangmu/Nepal border.
- Personal medicines and First-Aid expenses.
- Personal nature expenses.
- All Drinks except tea and coffee.
- Postage letter, Laundry service, Telephone calls and all other items of personal nature.
- Walkie-Talkie.
- Extra Yak: Per Yak's US $ 100 will be charged for 40 KG. load and US $ 25 for per Tibetan Yak man.
- Garbage Deposit US $ 500 (sharing with all total of the expedition climbers) and Deposit fee will be not refunded if the climber don't take back their garbage to ABC.
- Summit bonus for climbing Sherpa.
- Tips for Nepalese crews, etc.
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